Maintenance Notes for the Hamptons

The issues which follow are not intended to unduly alarm either current or potential owners of homes at the Hamptons at Maplewood. These homes are very well built and contain fewer "hidden defect" issues than other homes built in the area and in the same time frame. Even after personally dealing with many of the issues discussed here. I am totally convinced that the Hamptons homes are the best production homes I have encountered and represent excellent value. However, like all production (and custom) built homes, we now recognize that if they were being built today, we would avoid some of the problems by doing things differently. The following is simply a discussion of these areas along with some maintenance suggestions which may be in order on some units. You may have experienced and solved maintenance problems that are not included here. Please take the time to jot down your experience and get it to Bristol Management for addition to these notes.

Roofs, Facia, Soffits and Gutters:

Most of our homes show "streaks" running down the stucco walls at the point where the facia of an adjoining roof line intersects with the stucco wall. There are three principal points where this occurs.

• At the intersection of the garage facia with the exterior (front facing) wall of BR#3.
• At the intersection of the facie outside BR#3 with the exterior wall at the entry arch.
• At the intersection of the facie over the kitchen window with the exterior wall at the right side of the entry arch.

These streaks occur because of water leaking into/behind the aluminum facia which covers the 2" x 6" wood sub-facia. This water leaves black streaks because it contains the organic remains of rotting wood. (Not good!) Just re-caulking the seam of the facia with the wall does nothing except hold the water in the facia and encourage more rotting. Check the bottom edge of your facia. If you see dark black deposits at seams and corners, and in some cases even corroded out facia metal, this problem is active and needs to be remedied.

The mechanism of the water entry into the facia probably varies. In some cases it may involve problems with the roof membrane and require professional roofing repairs. In other cases the water may be entering through the gutter spikes and can be handled by a handy-man approach and a good caulking gun. Unfortunately, it Is very difficult to fell which mechanism is the culprit. In any case one should take some immediate action to get the water out of this facia as quickly as possible.

One "quick and dirty" step is to drill  a small hole (1/4" dia) on the bottom edge of the facia, approximately 4-6 inches away from the stucco wall. This will allow the water to escape the facia and drip off without running down the stucco wall and leaving stains. It will probably leave a black deposit around the hole, but this is a minor issue in the grand scheme of this problem. Now this is not a fix, and it will only reduce the rate of decay and the staining on the wall.

While you're at it, use a good caulking compound to make sure the gutter itself is not leaking at the end cap. Now this is easier said than done, but get your hands dirty and clean the inside of the gutter well, dry it out, and apply the caulking with your fingers to every possible leak point on the inside of the gutter endcap.

Now let's look further at the problem. Some units have shown another form of this problem. There may be an actual roof leak located above the entry arch, but in an area which does not result in water entering the interior of the unit. In this case. water drops onto the top side of the soffit material (gypsum dry wall) near the intersection of the soffit with the entry arch stucco wall. This can be seen by a sometimes subtle "belly/sag" developing in this soffit area. In some cases it has been so severe that the soffit has sagged until it is clearly visible outside the facia. In one case I have seen, the soffit actually fell down. Invariably there will be severe rot in the roof sheathing above this point. Repairs will require professional help, and will be significant in cost since it requires removal of tile, replacement of sheathing, and then replacement of the membrane and tile. And while you are at it, you might as well remove the facia and replace the sub- facia which is by now, also rotten. Thus, with this leak, you never see the problem inside the house, but serious damage may be occurring. Yes, the aluminum usually does not require maintenance itself BUT it can also cause some serious problems when it traps water against the common un-treated lumber of the sub-facia.

Cement Roof Tile Issues

The cement tile that covers the roofs of our units is typical of that being used in the 1988-1989 time frame. Unfortunately, it has since become apparent that this tile is more fragile than expected, and many of our units have a large number of "broken tiles". This breakage typically occurs during cleaning and other excursions on the roof. So we should minimize these excursions, and carefully monitor the performance of the roof cleaning personnel, and anyone else who goes up on the roof And keep your kids off the roof!

From where we are now, some 9 years after the roofs were installed, there is no real point in arguing whether the original roofs were adequately installed. There is just no realistic opportunity for recourse to the original builder (Burg & DiVosta, Inc.), and the only real question is whether the roofs will last 15, 20, 25 or even 30 years.

Broken roof tiles can usually be mortared, cemented or caulked into place, and since the cement tiles do nothing but keep the sun off the "membrane" which provides the water-proof layer, as well as weighting it down to keep it from blowing off, no harm is done. It is not realistic to expect our cement tile roofs to be without broken tiles. Hopefully we can keep the tiles tightly scaled to the roof with mortar or caulking or roof cement.

Roof Cleaning Issues

The newest (and best) method for roof cleaning involves chemical cleaning. This process uses a low pressure spray of "bleach" and other additives which kills the mildew and lasts up to 3+ years. It is common after the treatment to see residue of mildew for a few weeks, but as the rains come, more and more mildew is washed off and the roof becomes whiter. The bleach will kill vegetation however, so the technicians must cover the shrubs and flowers and rinse everything (including the facia and gutters) down to remove the chemical after the roof wash is complete. Failure to rinse the gutters and facia can result in damage to the painted surface. This low pressure process does not require nearly as much foot traffic on the roof as does high pressure washing, and there is lower likelihood of damage to tiles from walking on them. However, the people who do this service do not include washing of the unit walls and sidewalks in the roof service, but they are usually capable of doing the high pressure wash on walls and walks if it is requested. The cost will be higher than high pressure wash, but will last 2-3 times as long. Expect to pay $150-200 for the roof portion of this service.

Window Service

The windows used in the Hamptons involve a set of two balancing springs known as a "block and tackle assembly". For a variety of reasons, these units fail at a rate up to 1 window a year. Thus if your house has never had the windows serviced, you undoubtedly will find several windows that are very hard to get up or down. The cost of servicing these windows can be in the $50/window range. Thus a service call can set you back $150 or $200 for several windows. Servicing the windows by replacing these "B&T Assy's" is easy, and we will periodically arrange demonstrations so that you can team up with a neighbor and fix all your windows for a relatively nominal cost. With a little practice, two people can service 4 or 5 windows in an hour. If you are interested, contact the Property Manger, and ask to be notified of the next demonstrations).

Another window issue is the displacement and/or rattling of the "mullion bars". Frequently the little clips that hold the mullions break and the mullions slip out of place and/or rattle at the slightest vibration. One way to solve the problem is to remove the mullions entirely. The Association has no objection if this is your choice. It also makes it a lot easier to wash the windows for those of your who are "compulsive cleaners." But you can also get replacement mullion clips. And a tiny "dab" of clear silicone caulk is a good substitute and also stops the rattles.

The plastic trim molding that surrounds the window glass also cracks and breaks due to the prolonged exposure to the UV of sunlight. Replacement trim is available at the window supplier and though it is a laborious process, replacement is possible.

Rotting of Brick Mould at Side Door of Game

The original brick mold used around these doors is "real wood" and prone to develop rot. New plastic brick mold is available from Home Depot (or DiVosta/Florida. Building Products, Riverside Drive, in PBG). Replacement is simple if the rot has not gotten into the actual door jamb. Even when there is rot in the jamb, it can be cut out and replaced in a manner that does not require replacement of the whole door jamb. Not real easy, but if you or your carpenter have patience, it is an acceptable repair. Similarly, the trim around the Overhead Garage Door is prone to rot. It is also now available at Home Depot in plastic. Replacement is easy for an average handyman.

Outside Light Fixtures

If, when cleaning or painting the fixtures on the ceiling of the entry foyer and above the side garage door, you break some of the glass, it is probably cheaper/quicker to replace the whole fixture with a new one from Home Depot (less than $10), and it is already painted white. Now with the coach light fixtures at the front it is a different matter. The exact replacements have proved very elusive, although similar coachlight fixtures are available. However, don't even think of replacing the white fixtures with brass or other colors or significantly different fixtures unless you ask for ACC approval (unlikely).

Garage Door/Opener

A garage door opener that sits there and "hums" without raising the door may need a new "motor start capacitor". This is a black cylindrical item that looks something like a battery, and is located under the cover of the opener. Be sure you know what you are doing or get help from someone who does, and disconnect the power from the opener before removing the cover. Replacement capacitors are available at electrical motor and pump shops. Take the old one in for testing and to assure that you get a suitable replacement.

If your opener is trying to open the door, but cuts out because of an overload, visually check for a broken spring. It is usually obvious when the spring breaks. If it is broken, (common as our homes reach the fatigue limit of these springs) it should be serviced only by qualified technicians. We suggest you call Charlie Reamsnyder, 622-8571 or Bpr#947-9363 or Overhead Door of the Palm Beaches (in Riviera Beach). This company was the original supplier and installers of these doors and will service the doors with the correct spring. It is common for many suppliers to use "whatever" spring they happen to have on the truck, and this invariably results in shortened life of the replacement spring, and/or marginal operability of the opener and door. It is best to replace both springs simultaneously. Cost of $160 to $200 should be anticipated.

Water Shut Off Valves

The shut off valves located below your toilet tanks are "quarter turn" devices, and due to their plastic stem, are prone to failure. If you need to use them, remember that if you can get them to turn at all, only turn them 90 degrees. If you force them beyond that point, you may have a real mess on your hands. On the other hand, you may not be able to get them to turn off at all, in which case you will need to replace them anyway. You can get an equivalent "1/2" nominal tube compression type" valve at Home Depot, for a few dollars and by all means, have one on hand when you start to change out the toilet ball cock assemblies. There are many variants of inlet tube sizes and outlet tube sizes, so do your best to measure or use your calibrated eyeball to get the right combination. It usually takes me at least 3 trips to HD for one of these jobs. A similar shut off valve for the ice maker is located in the back of the pantry at the bottom shelf You may not even know where it is located. Similarly, there is a set of valves provided in the lower hall cabinet (behind your liquor bottles) which relate to the shower stall.

The hose bibs on the outside are special items for which replacement parts are not readily available in local stores. However, the "vacuum breaker" part which is easy to "lose" can be replaced by putting together some universal adapter pens typically available at Jupiter West ACE Hardware.

Security System Pre-Wiring

The front entry door jamb is pre-wired with a set of switch leads which have been extended into the attic above the doors. If you decide to install a security system you will probably want to take advantage of these leads. This is the extent of the pre-wiring however, so for the most part, you are starting from scratch if your home did not have a security system installed during construction.

Irritation Valves and Back Yard Sprinklers

There is a set of two ball valves located outside the corner of the kitchen. One is located outside the sidewalk and a second valve is inside the front planter. For most units, the valve outside the sidewalk controls the sprinklers in your back yard. The valve inside the front planter controls the sprinklers in the front beds. These valves are typically covered by an approx 6 inch diameter green plastic cover. Unfortunately, these valve boxes are often buried and/or the covers are missing so that the valves are completely covered by sand. Probe around with a rod or dig carefully to find these valves. While the Association will take care of the sprinklers in your front yard, it is up to you to provide service for those in the back yard. And by all means, if you are doing construction work in the back yard, (e.g. pouring concrete or coating a slab), find the valve and shut off the back yard sprinklers. This also applies to your really big parties... A sprinkler episode during your entertainment of the year is a real bummer... If you need some help, contact the PM and request the contact number for the irrigation contractor. The irrigation contractor charges approximately $25 for a backyard check up and tune-up. It's a bargain considering the hassle of checking your sprinklers when they run only in the wee hours.

Trees and Driveways and Sidewalks

There are instances where trees located adjacent to the driveways are "lifting" the driveway slab. This can cause the driveway to crack and/or result in the "lip" of the driveway being raised above the garage floor. This makes it difficult to sweep the garage and/or can result in water being diverted into the garage since it can't get over this lip. If this occurs at your unit, promptly notify the PM in writing so that the offending tree can be removed. The most common tree causing this problem is the Yellow Tabebuia which was frequently placed at the corner of the garage on the zero lot fine side. Usually the tree stump can not be removed because the roots are entwined around your electrical service wires. Thus "replacement" is not always feasible. Similarly, other trees may lift your front sidewalk to your entry or the sidewalk along the street. In the case of the sidewalks along the street, the Town of Jupiter is responsible for correction, while the problem with interior sidewalks (in the front yard) is primarily an Owner issue. in either case, notify the PM and request a review of the problem.

other trees such as Carrotwood or Eucalyptus present problems to driveways or foundations and/or are such nuisance trees because of their ugly and staining seed pods that we are removing those located in the front yards upon request of the owners. Contact the PM if you have this situation.

Dryer Vent Problems

Some owners have discovered that the "dryer vent" is obstructed by stucco or other debris remaining from the original construction. The dryer vent is located on the zero lot line wall just outside the dryer approx 1 ft above ground level. To check for this problem, just remove the aluminum vent shield on the outside of the house and look for excess stucco or other debris. Start the dryer and listen and feel the exhaust stream to assure that there is no apparent obstruction in the wall. And while you are at it, make sure the flexible vent tube connecting the dryer to the wall is not kinked or obstructed. If your dryer seems to be extremely slow in drying the clothes, the cause could be one of these obstructions.

Base Boards and New Carpeting

The base boards in our units are applied to the walls with construction adhesive and only enough nails to hold the boards in place while the adhesive is drying. And the drywall typically ends approx 2 inches above the floor slab, thus the bottom edge of the baseboard is "unsupported". Now this is unlikely to be a problem to you until you go to install new carpeting. When the (new) carpet installer goes to "tuck" the edge of the carpet into the small groove between the tack strip and the baseboard, the pressure on this unsupported bottom edge of the baseboard is sufficient to cause the adhesive that holds the baseboard to the drywall to separate allowing an ugly gap between the top edge of the baseboard and the drywall. There is no real way to fix this after it happens other than to caulk this gap (1/4" or more) or to replace the baseboard. This separation may occur days or weeks after the carpet installation is complete. To prevent or reduce the problem, warn your carpet installer of the problem and ask that they cut the carpet edge an eighth of an inch shorter so that the pressure applied by the "tuck" is reduced.

Air Conditioner Drain(s)

There is a small pipe opening through the soffit over the window to BR#3. This is the "secondary" AC drain. If water drips from this pipe it indicates that your primary drain is clogged and if not corrected you may get serious water damage to your ceilings as the (emergency) drain pan either sweats or allows the water to leak to the ceilings. Call your AC serviceman and ask that they clean the vent along with performing other preventative maintenance checks. Usually the cause of the problem is a buildup of algae inside the AC evaporator or in the primary drain pipe. It can sometimes be cleared by using a shop vac to suck the "guck" out of the primary drain piping. Unfortunately this is a temporary fix because it does not get the guck out of the evaporator and the algae continues to grow. AC servicemen usually use a solution to kill or restrict the algae growth to extend the time between cleanings. A good clean out will probably Iast several years. And while you are working on the AC, be sure to clean or change the air filter located behind the ceiling grille in the hallway. New and washable filters are less then $10 at Home Depot.

Hurricane Bracing for Front Entry and Garage Doors

One of the most serious and often overlooked threats to our homes in the event of a hurricane is the possibility that the front entry doors and/or the garage door will be blown in/out. We have a design for bracing of both of these doors which can be executed by the typical owner at very little cost. Contact the PM and ask for the Hurricane Bracing paper (No that's not a recipe for a game day drink). Obviously the sliding glass door on the rear is the biggest risk. The best solution here is professional shutters of either the "accordion fold" type or "hurricane panels". Due to the 8' x 12' opening size, you can not effectively protect these doors with plywood panels. Remember, ACC approval is required before installing storm protection shutters on your home. Don't take a chance on contracting for storm protection shutters before getting ACC approval on the type to be used. Storm panels and accordion fold shutters are allowed, but ACC approval is still required in advance,