Maintenance Notes for the Hamptons
The issues which follow are not intended to unduly alarm either current
or potential owners of homes at the Hamptons at Maplewood. These homes are
very well built and contain fewer "hidden defect" issues than other homes
built in the area and in the same time frame. Even after personally
dealing with many of the issues discussed here. I am totally convinced
that the Hamptons homes are the best production homes I have encountered
and represent excellent value. However, like all production (and custom)
built homes, we now recognize that if they were being built today, we
would avoid some of the problems by doing things differently. The
following is simply a discussion of these areas along with some
maintenance suggestions which may be in order on some units. You may have
experienced and solved maintenance problems that are not included here.
Please take the time to jot down your experience and get it to Bristol
Management for addition
to these notes.
Roofs, Facia, Soffits and Gutters:
Most of our homes show "streaks" running down the stucco walls at the
point where the facia of an adjoining roof line intersects with the stucco
wall. There are three principal points where this occurs.
- At the intersection of the garage facia with the exterior (front
facing) wall of BR#3.
- At the intersection of the facie outside BR#3 with the exterior
wall at the entry arch.
- At the intersection of the facie over the kitchen window with the
exterior wall at the right side of the entry arch.
These streaks occur because of water leaking into/behind the aluminum
facia which covers the 2" x 6" wood sub-facia. This water leaves black
streaks because it contains the organic remains of rotting wood. (Not
good!) Just re-caulking the seam of the facia with the wall does nothing
except hold the water in the facia and encourage more rotting. Check the
bottom edge of your facia. If you see dark black deposits at seams and
corners, and in some cases even corroded out facia metal, this problem is
active and needs to be remedied.
The mechanism of the water entry into the facia probably varies. In
some cases it may involve problems with the roof membrane and require
professional roofing repairs. In other cases the water may be entering
through the gutter spikes and can be handled by a handy-man approach and a
good caulking gun. Unfortunately, it Is very difficult to fell which
mechanism is the culprit. In any case one should take some immediate
action to get the water out of this facia as quickly as possible.
One "quick and dirty" step is to drill a small hole (1/4" dia) on
the bottom edge of the facia, approximately 4-6 inches away from the
stucco wall. This will allow the water to escape the facia and drip off
without running down the stucco wall and leaving stains. It will probably
leave a black deposit around the hole, but this is a minor issue in the
grand scheme of this problem. Now this is not a fix, and it will only
reduce the rate of decay and the staining on the wall.
While you're at it, use a good caulking compound to make sure the
gutter itself is not leaking at the end cap. Now this is easier said than
done, but get your hands dirty and clean the inside of the gutter well,
dry it out, and apply the caulking with your fingers to every possible
leak point on the inside of the gutter endcap.
Now let's look further at the problem. Some units have shown another
form of this problem. There may be an actual roof leak located above the
entry arch, but in an area which does not result in water entering the
interior of the unit. In this case. water drops onto the top side of the
soffit material (gypsum dry wall) near the intersection of the soffit with
the entry arch stucco wall. This can be seen by a sometimes subtle
"belly/sag" developing in this soffit area. In some cases it has been so
severe that the soffit has sagged until it is clearly visible outside the
facia. In one case I have seen, the soffit actually fell down. Invariably
there will be severe rot in the roof sheathing above this point. Repairs
will require professional help, and will be significant in cost since it
requires removal of tile, replacement of sheathing, and then replacement
of the membrane and tile. And while you are at it, you might as well
remove the facia and replace the sub- facia which is by now, also rotten.
Thus, with this leak, you never see the problem inside the house, but
serious damage may be occurring. Yes, the aluminum usually does not
require maintenance itself BUT it can also cause some serious problems
when it traps water against the common un-treated lumber of the sub-facia.
Cement Roof Tile Issues
The cement tile that covers the roofs of our units is typical of that
being used in the 1988-1989 time frame. Unfortunately, it has since become
apparent that this tile is more fragile than expected, and many of our
units have a large number of "broken tiles". This breakage typically
occurs during cleaning and other excursions on the roof. So we should
minimize these excursions, and carefully monitor the performance of the
roof cleaning personnel, and anyone else who goes up on the roof And keep
your kids off the roof!
From where we are now, some 9 years after the roofs were installed,
there is no real point in arguing whether the original roofs were
adequately installed. There is just no realistic opportunity for recourse
to the original builder (Burg & DiVosta, Inc.), and the only real question
is whether the roofs will last 15, 20, 25 or even 30 years.
Broken roof tiles can usually be mortared, cemented or caulked into
place, and since the cement tiles do nothing but keep the sun off the
"membrane" which provides the water-proof layer, as well as weighting it
down to keep it from blowing off, no harm is done. It is not realistic to
expect our cement tile roofs to be without broken tiles. Hopefully we can
keep the tiles tightly scaled to the roof with mortar or caulking or roof
cement.
Roof Cleaning Issues
The newest (and best) method for roof cleaning involves chemical
cleaning. This process uses a low pressure spray of "bleach" and other
additives which kills the mildew and lasts up to 3+ years. It is common
after the treatment to see residue of mildew for a few weeks, but as the
rains come, more and more mildew is washed off and the roof becomes
whiter. The bleach will kill vegetation however, so the technicians must
cover the shrubs and flowers and rinse everything (including the facia and
gutters) down to remove the chemical after the roof wash is complete.
Failure to rinse the gutters and facia can result in damage to the painted
surface. This low pressure process does not require nearly as much foot
traffic on the roof as does high pressure washing, and there is lower
likelihood of damage to tiles from walking on them. However, the people
who do this service do not include washing of the unit walls and sidewalks
in the roof service, but they are usually capable of doing the high
pressure wash on walls and walks if it is requested. The cost will be
higher than high pressure wash, but will last 2-3 times as long. Expect to
pay $150-200 for the roof portion of this service.
Window Service
The windows used in the Hamptons involve a set of two balancing springs
known as a "block and tackle assembly". For a variety of reasons, these
units fail at a rate up to 1 window a year. Thus if your house has never
had the windows serviced, you undoubtedly will find several windows that
are very hard to get up or down. The cost of servicing these windows can
be in the $50/window range. Thus a service call can set you back $150 or
$200 for several windows. Servicing the windows by replacing these "B&T
Assy's" is easy, and we will periodically arrange demonstrations so that
you can team up with a neighbor and fix all your windows for a relatively
nominal cost. With a little practice, two people can service 4 or 5
windows in an hour. If you are interested, contact the Property Manger,
and ask to be notified of the next demonstrations).
Another window issue is the displacement and/or rattling of the
"mullion bars". Frequently the little clips that hold the mullions break
and the mullions slip out of place and/or rattle at the slightest
vibration. One way to solve the problem is to remove the mullions
entirely. The Association has no objection if this is your choice. It also
makes it a lot easier to wash the windows for those of your who are
"compulsive cleaners." But you can also get replacement mullion clips. And
a tiny "dab" of clear silicone caulk is a good substitute and also stops
the rattles.
The plastic trim molding that surrounds the window glass also cracks
and breaks due to the prolonged exposure to the UV of sunlight.
Replacement trim is available at the window supplier and though it is a
laborious process, replacement is possible.
Rotting of Brick Mould at Side Door of Game
The original brick mold used around these doors is "real wood" and
prone to develop rot. New plastic brick mold is available from Home Depot
(or DiVosta/Florida. Building Products, Riverside Drive, in PBG).
Replacement is simple if the rot has not gotten into the actual door jamb.
Even when there is rot in the jamb, it can be cut out and replaced in a
manner that does not require replacement of the whole door jamb. Not real
easy, but if you or your carpenter have patience, it is an acceptable
repair. Similarly, the trim around the Overhead Garage Door is prone to
rot. It is also now available at Home Depot in plastic. Replacement is
easy for an average handyman.
Outside Light Fixtures
If, when cleaning or painting the fixtures on the ceiling of the entry
foyer and above the side garage door, you break some of the glass, it is
probably cheaper/quicker to replace the whole fixture with a new one from
Home Depot (less than $10), and it is already painted white. Now with the
coach light fixtures at the front it is a different matter. The exact
replacements have proved very elusive, although similar coachlight
fixtures are available. However, don't even think of replacing the white
fixtures with brass or other colors or significantly different fixtures
unless you ask for ACC approval (unlikely). |
Garage Door/Opener
A garage door opener that sits there and "hums" without raising the
door may need a new "motor start capacitor". This is a black cylindrical
item that looks something like a battery, and is located under the cover
of the opener. Be sure you know what you are doing or get help from
someone who does, and disconnect the power from the opener before removing
the cover. Replacement capacitors are available at electrical motor and
pump shops. Take the old one in for testing and to assure that you get a
suitable replacement.
If your opener is trying to open the door, but cuts out because of an
overload, visually check for a broken spring. It is usually obvious when
the spring breaks. If it is broken, (common as our homes reach the fatigue
limit of these springs) it should be serviced only by qualified
technicians. We suggest you call Charlie Reamsnyder, 622-8571 or Bpr#947-9363
or Overhead Door of the Palm Beaches (in Riviera Beach). This company was
the original supplier and installers of these doors and will service the
doors with the correct spring. It is common for many suppliers to use
"whatever" spring they happen to have on the truck, and this invariably
results in shortened life of the replacement spring, and/or marginal
operability of the opener and door. It is best to replace both springs
simultaneously. Cost of $160 to $200 should be anticipated.
Water Shut Off Valves
The shut off valves located below your toilet tanks are "quarter turn"
devices, and due to their plastic stem, are prone to failure. If you need
to use them, remember that if you can get them to turn at all, only turn
them 90 degrees. If you force them beyond that point, you may have a real
mess on your hands. On the other hand, you may not be able to get them to
turn off at all, in which case you will need to replace them anyway. You
can get an equivalent "1/2" nominal tube compression type" valve at Home
Depot, for a few dollars and by all means, have one on hand when you start
to change out the toilet ball cock assemblies. There are many variants of
inlet tube sizes and outlet tube sizes, so do your best to measure or use
your calibrated eyeball to get the right combination. It usually takes me
at least 3 trips to HD for one of these jobs. A similar shut off valve for
the ice maker is located in the back of the pantry at the bottom shelf You
may not even know where it is located. Similarly, there is a set of valves
provided in the lower hall cabinet (behind your liquor bottles) which
relate to the shower stall.
The hose bibs on the outside are special items for which replacement
parts are not readily available in local stores. However, the "vacuum
breaker" part which is easy to "lose" can be replaced by putting together
some universal adapter pens typically available at Jupiter West ACE
Hardware.
Security System Pre-Wiring
The front entry door jamb is pre-wired with a set of switch leads which
have been extended into the attic above the doors. If you decide to
install a security system you will probably want to take advantage of
these leads. This is the extent of the pre-wiring however, so for the most
part, you are starting from scratch if your home did not have a security
system installed during construction.
Irritation Valves and Back Yard Sprinklers
There is a set of two ball valves located outside the corner of the
kitchen. One is located outside the sidewalk and a second valve is inside
the front planter. For most units, the valve outside the sidewalk controls
the sprinklers in your back yard. The valve inside the front planter
controls the sprinklers in the front beds. These valves are typically
covered by an approx 6 inch diameter green plastic cover. Unfortunately,
these valve boxes are often buried and/or the covers are missing so that
the valves are completely covered by sand. Probe around with a rod or dig
carefully to find these valves. While the Association will take care of
the sprinklers in your front yard, it is up to you to provide service for
those in the back yard. And by all means, if you are doing construction
work in the back yard, (e.g. pouring concrete or coating a slab), find the
valve and shut off the back yard sprinklers. This also applies to your
really big parties... A sprinkler episode during your entertainment of the
year is a real bummer... If you need some help, contact the PM and request
the contact number for the irrigation contractor. The irrigation
contractor charges approximately $25 for a backyard check up and tune-up.
It's a bargain considering the hassle of checking your sprinklers when
they run only in the wee hours.
Trees and Driveways and Sidewalks
There are instances where trees located adjacent to the driveways are
"lifting" the driveway slab. This can cause the driveway to crack and/or
result in the "lip" of the driveway being raised above the garage floor.
This makes it difficult to sweep the garage and/or can result in water
being diverted into the garage since it can't get over this lip. If this
occurs at your unit, promptly notify the PM in writing so that the
offending tree can be removed. The most common tree causing this problem
is the Yellow Tabebuia which was frequently placed at the corner of the
garage on the zero lot fine side. Usually the tree stump can not be
removed because the roots are entwined around your electrical service
wires. Thus "replacement" is not always feasible. Similarly, other trees
may lift your front sidewalk to your entry or the sidewalk along the
street. In the case of the sidewalks along the street, the Town of Jupiter
is responsible for correction, while the problem with interior sidewalks
(in the front yard) is primarily an Owner issue. in
either case, notify the PM and request a review of the problem.
other trees such as Carrotwood or Eucalyptus present problems to
driveways or foundations and/or are such nuisance trees because of their
ugly and staining seed pods that we are removing those located in the
front yards upon request of the owners. Contact the PM if you have this
situation.
Dryer Vent Problems
Some owners have discovered that the "dryer vent" is obstructed by
stucco or other debris remaining from the original construction. The dryer
vent is located on the zero lot line wall just outside the dryer approx 1
ft above ground level. To check for this problem, just remove the aluminum
vent shield on the outside of the house and look for excess stucco or
other debris. Start the dryer and listen and feel the exhaust stream to
assure that there is no apparent obstruction in the wall. And while you
are at it, make sure the flexible vent tube connecting the dryer to the
wall is not kinked or obstructed. If your dryer seems to be extremely slow
in drying the clothes, the cause could be one of these obstructions.
Base Boards and New Carpeting
The base boards in our units are applied to the walls with construction
adhesive and only enough nails to hold the boards in place while the
adhesive is drying. And the drywall typically ends approx 2 inches above
the floor slab, thus the bottom edge of the baseboard is "unsupported".
Now this is unlikely to be a problem to you until you go to install new
carpeting. When the (new) carpet installer goes to "tuck" the edge of the
carpet into the small groove between the tack strip and the baseboard, the
pressure on this unsupported bottom edge of the baseboard is sufficient to
cause the adhesive that holds the baseboard to the drywall to separate
allowing an ugly gap between the top edge of the baseboard and the
drywall. There is no real way to fix this after it happens other than to
caulk this gap (1/4" or more) or to replace the baseboard. This separation
may occur days or weeks after the carpet installation is complete. To
prevent or reduce the problem, warn your carpet installer of the problem
and ask that they cut the carpet edge an eighth of an inch shorter so that
the pressure applied by the "tuck" is reduced.
Air Conditioner Drain(s)
There is a small pipe opening through the soffit over the window to
BR#3. This is the "secondary" AC drain. If water drips from this pipe it
indicates that your primary drain is clogged and if not corrected you may
get serious water damage to your ceilings as the (emergency) drain pan
either sweats or allows the water to leak to the ceilings. Call your AC
serviceman and ask that they clean the vent along with performing other
preventative maintenance checks. Usually the cause of the problem is a
buildup of algae inside the AC evaporator or in the primary drain pipe. It
can sometimes be cleared by using a shop vac to suck the "guck" out of the
primary drain piping. Unfortunately this is a temporary fix because it
does not get the guck out of the evaporator and the algae continues to
grow. AC servicemen usually use a solution to kill or restrict the algae
growth to extend the time between cleanings. A good clean out will
probably Iast several years. And while you are working on the AC, be sure
to clean or change the air filter located behind the ceiling grille in the
hallway. New and washable filters are less then $10 at Home Depot.
Hurricane Bracing for Front Entry and Garage Doors
One of the most serious and often overlooked threats to our homes in
the event of a hurricane is the possibility that the front entry doors
and/or the garage door will be blown in/out. We have a design for bracing
of both of these doors which can be executed by the typical owner at very
little cost. Contact the PM and ask for the Hurricane Bracing paper (No
that's not a recipe for a game day drink). Obviously the sliding glass
door on the rear is the biggest risk. The best solution here is
professional shutters of either the "accordion fold" type or "hurricane
panels". Due to the 8' x 12' opening size, you can not effectively protect
these doors with plywood panels. Remember, ACC approval is required before
installing storm protection shutters on your home. Don't take a chance on
contracting for storm protection shutters before getting ACC approval on
the type to be used. Storm panels and accordion fold shutters are allowed,
but ACC approval is still required in advance, |